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The Boston Globe recently ran an article about a special exhibit at the Prado Museum in Madrid, Spain. The exhibit features two masterpieces: Las Meninas, which was painted by one of Spain’s most well know artists, Diego Velázquez, and The Daughters of Edward Darley Boit, painted by U.S. artist John Singer Sargent. When we are in Madrid we will be visiting the Prado on Sunday, April 11, where we will visit this exhibit, and be able to compare and contrast the two works for ourselves. Until then, here is some food for thought.

Las Meninas by Velázquez

 

Velázquez, Sargent paintings meet ‘face to face’ in 

  By Dale Fuchs, Globe Correspondent  |  March 16, 2010 

 MADRID — In 1656, Diego Velázquez painted a 5-year-old girl with silky blond hair and a self-assured gaze in a murky palace hall. That girl was Spain’s Princess Margarita, and the painting, “Las Meninas,’’ is the jewel of Madrid’s Prado Museum. 

 More than two centuries later, John Singer Sargent painted another little girl, 4-year-old Julia Boit, sprawling on a faded carpet holding her pink doll and staring confidently at the viewer. The enigmatic portrait, “The Daughters of Edward Darley Boit,’’ is one of the greatest treasures of Boston’s Museum Fine Arts. 

 On the surface, the two girls have little in common: One wears a voluminous gown; the other sports a playtime pinafore. One is flanked by doting ladies in waiting, the other accompanied by her three older sisters, daughters of a lawyer-turned-painter from Boston. 

 But Margarita and Julia met in the imagination of Sargent, who studied “Las Meninas’’ closely during visits to the Prado in 1879 and was inspired to imbue his own work with echoes of the Velázquez masterpiece. Now these two girls are meeting for the first time, “face to face,’’ as Prado director Miguel Zugaza puts it. 

 Sargent’s iconic painting traveled to Spain last week and now hangs just a few feet from the Velázquez, in the center of the Prado’s main hall, where it is on view until May 30 as part of the museum’s “Invited Work’’ series. 

 “It’s a favorite in Boston, but here in Madrid it’s going to be seen by hundreds of thousands of people who never come to Boston and some who might come as a result of seeing this picture,’’ said Malcolm Rogers, the MFA director who traveled to Spain to mark the occasion and, standing in the Prado gallery, was admiring the Sargent through a crowd of tourists. 

 In 1879, Sargent was himself among the throng visiting the museum. He traveled extensively through Spain, and he made repeated visits to the Prado to study Velázquez works and copy “Las Meninas.’’ Now on display next to his painting, a Prado visitor record book shows three Sargent signatures. (In two, he oddly uses the name Gustavo instead of John.) 

 “Sargent would have been thrilled to see the painting in this museum,’’ said Erica E. Hirshler, senior curator of American paintings at the MFA and author of the recent book “Sargent’s Daughters: The Biography of a Painting,’’ which tells the story of this work. “People associate it so much with Boston, because it has been at the MFA for such a long time, but it is really a world-class, cosmopolitan painting.’’ 

The Daughters of Edward Darley Boit by John Singer Sargent

 

 Looking at the two portraits, Hirshler pointed to similarities in composition, light, and dynamics. She beamed as she described subtle parallels: how Julia Boit’s pose is a mirror image of Princess Margarita’s and how the glowing mirror over the Boits’s fireplace in their Paris apartment recalls the reflected image of the Spanish king and queen. Both paintings, she noted, convey a snapshot sense of arrested motion, frozen moments in the play of the Boit girls and the courtly dynamics that swirled around the princess. 

 “This is once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see the two together,’’ Hirshler said. 

 Indeed, the Prado does not loan “Las Meninas,’’ the centerpiece of its collection, and the Sargent work has rarely traveled since the Boit daughters donated it to the MFA in 1919. When it returns from Spain, “The Daughters of Edward Darley Boit’’ will take its place of honor in the MFA’s soon-to-open Art of the Americas Wing, said Rogers, alongside the two blue-and-white Japanese vases that are depicted in the painting dwarfing Julia and her sisters. 

 Sargent, of course, was not the only one of his generation to seek inspiration from “Las Meninas.’’ A wave of late 19th-century and early 20th-century artists, including Manet, Degas, Picasso, and Bacon made pilgrimages to the Prado to study Velázquez’s technique, and the Spanish master touches many of their works. 

 But Prado curators consider Sargent’s painting especially intriguing. “Of all the tributes to ‘Las Meninas,’ Sargent’s is the most emotional,’’ said Zugaza, the Prado director. “He takes the structure of ‘Las Meninas’ and transforms it into a modern painting. It’s not so much a tribute as a dialogue between two artists.’’ 

 Zugaza said he suggested Sargent’s return to Madrid when he learned that the painting was about to move for the MFA’s expansion. “But the one who really wanted to come was Sargent himself,’’ he quipped. 

 Boit commissioned the portrait of his daughters in 1882, three years after Sargent copied “Las Meninas.’’ The two men belonged to a circle of expatriate American artists and writers, including novelist Henry James, who flocked to 1870s Paris. According to Hirshler, they remained friends long after Sargent completed the portrait, suggesting Boit was not fazed by the work’s unorthodox composition, even though critics at the time considered it eccentric. 

 “Both Sargent and Velázquez had patrons who were lovers of art,’’ said Javier Barón, the Prado’s chief curator of 19th-century painting. 

 “Boit was a painter himself, and Philip IV was the best collector of his time. This gave both artists the freedom to resolve their portraits in an unconventional way.’’ 

 Today, Sargent is praised for expertly combining lessons from the past with what Hirshler terms “the nervous spirit of his own age.’’ 

 But can Julia Boit and her sisters hold their own in the presence of the Velázquez masterpiece, one of the most revered pictures in the world? 

 “I was worried about it,’’ admitted Hirshler, shuttling her gaze between the assertive, round-checked girls with satisfaction. “But the Sargent is a very strong picture in and of itself. It has a soul of its own.’’ 

Madrid 

http://www.boston.com/news/local/massachusetts/articles/2010/03/16/velzquez_sargent_paintings_meet_face_to_face_in_madrid/?p1=Well_MostPop_Emailed3

While some of us might indulge in corned beef & cabbage or shepherd’s pie to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day, you could be wondering what sort of Celtic influence we will find in Spain. Rest assured, with it’s proximity to the Emerald Island, Galicia shares some traits with Ireland.

Some say that Galicia is unlike any other region of Spain, and is more closely related to Ireland because of some shared characteristics. While it doesn’t rain as much in Galicia as Ireland, the weather in Galicia is cooler and rainier than central and southern Spain. Also, the beautiful Galicia coastline, dotted with tiny coves, high cliffs and fishing ports is reminiscent of the Irish landscape. Meanwhile, the inland area is green and wooded, especially along the valleys where trees overlook lush meadows and orchards.

With a beautiful countryside, Galicia’s natural features lend themselves to the great Galician traditions of myths and legends. Galicians like to think of themselves as having deep Celtic roots and affinities with Ireland because one local myth states that Galicia was ‘colonized’ by settlers from Ireland and Scotland in the 3rd century BC.

Whether the Celtic influence is more or less pronounced today in comparison to the 3rd century, everyone’s Irish on St. Patrick’s Day – even the Spanish.

While we are in Madrid we will be going to El Museo Reina Sofia, which has an extetnsive collection of modern art. One of the pieces that we will see is Guernica, a painting by Pablo Picasso, depicting the bombing of Guernica (in Basque Country). With the approval and support of the Spanish Nationalist forces, German and Italian war planes bombed Guernica on April 26, 1937, in the midst of the Spanish Civil War. After the bombing, the Spanish Republican government commissioned Pablo Picasso to create a large mural for the Spanish display at the Exposition Internationale des Arts et Techniques dans la Vie Moderne (1937) Paris International Exposition in the 1937 World’s Fair in Paris.

Guernica shows the tragedies of war and the suffering it inflicts upon individuals, particularly innocent civilians. This work has gained a monumental status, becoming a perpetual reminder of the tragedies of war, an anti-war symbol, and an embodiment of peace. On completion, Guernica was displayed around the world in a brief tour, becoming famous and widely acclaimed.

Guernica is blue, black and white, 3.5 metre (11 ft) tall and 7.8 metre (25.6 ft) wide, a mural-size canvas painted in oil. This painting can be seen in the Museo Reina Sofía in Madrid. Picasso’s purpose in painting it was to bring to the world’s attention the bombing of the Basque town of Guernica by German bombers, who were supporting the Nationalist forces of General Franco during the Spanish Civil War.

 While we will see this painting in person, check out the following link for an amazing interpretation of this masterpiece: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKVCov-XFXw

To define Spain in general food terms is easy: olives, olive oil, parsley, almonds, sherry, garlic, saffron. Add these to chicken, cod, seafood, and some meats, and you are almost inside a Spanish kitchen. However, with Galicia’s proximity to the Atlantic coast, seafood is the main star of the Galician culinary world. You might not encounter all of the following foods, but here are some local favorites:

Pulpo (Octopus) – Where else other than Galicia, could you find street vendors selling octopus? Octopus or Pulpo is a Galician delicacy. After being beaten to tenderize the pulpo is boiled in large pots before being cut into small pieces and flavored with salt and paprika.

Mejilliones (Mussles) – One of the main harvests of the sea, is the Galician mussel which is exported all over Spain

Queso Gallego (Galician Cheese) – The lush pastures of Galicia make ideal grazing for the large number of cattle in the region. One of Spain’s most popular cheeses, San Simon, comes from Galicia. San Simon is a smoked cow’s milk cheese which is conically shaped with a brown skin.

Tortilla Española (Spanish omelet) – An omelet made of eggs, potatoes and onion, seasoned with salt. ¡Deliciosa!

Paella – A rice dish, similar in consistency to jambalaya, but with a totally different taste. Paella can have any of the following in it: chicken, rabbit, seafood and/or shellfish.

Jamón Serrano (Dry Cured Spanish Ham) – Ham that is similar to Italian prosciutto ham.

Cocido Gallego (Galician Stew) – A hearty “soup” with beef, ham, chicken, sausage, cabbage, turnip greens and potatoes (like a boiled dinner). Great for a cooler rainy night.

In a recent survey of students who study abroad, participants had the following suggestions regarding local Spanish customs. These should help you fit in a little better.

– Realize that breakfast and dinner will be smaller meals, but that at midday the meal will be large. 

– Siesta is real and you will learn to love it.

– Spaniards are often late and it is not considered rude. Also, do not expect quick service as the lifestyle is more “laid back”.

– Watch your table manners. Although you may find a few things that Spaniards do truly appalling, they too will be surprised at some of your actions. Your best bet is to watch them and follow their lead.

– Be sure to dress nicely when you go out.

– Your host family will do your laundry, but be courteous – if you like to wear several different outfits a day, rethink this habit. Also, detergents may be harsher than the ones you use.

– If you are not used to walking, get used to it. Sometimes public transportation is not the best way to explore an area.

– Be prepared for besos (kisses). In some situations, everyone is going to be kissing everyone (a kiss on each cheek) and you are going to have to get used to this. Even when you first meet people who are friends of a friend, they will give you besos.

– Sometimes the distance between people who are just standing and talking is close and may make you feel uncomfortable at the outset. Do not feel invaded! This is just the Spanish idea of personal space. You will get used to it and not even notice it after a short time.

Spaniards generally have a modern approach to clothes, fashion and dressing. They care about their personal appearance and image, and they tend to dress conservatively and elegantly. Spaniards don’t really wear casual clothes as we know it (needless to say, you won’t find a Spaniard donned in sweats roaming through the streets of Santiago). With this in mind, you might not be sure what to wear so that you fit in with all the Spaniards. Here are some tips to help you decide what to pack and what to leave behind.

Do choose fitted styled clothes. The Spanish dress well and their clothes fit well and look sophisticated. Spaniards will notice baggy clothes and probably comment on them. You can of course wear whatever you want, but should think jeans without holes for your casual wear and some slightly nicer slacks for a dressier outfit.  In the winter people tend to look quite smart all the time, in fitted jackets, boots and darker colors.

Do not wear bright, garish colored clothing. You will notice that as a rule the Spaniards seem to prefer muted, autumnal colors, like green, yellow ochre and burgundy. However this is changing and shops for the young are full of brighter clothes. Whichever way you
choose to go also remember that the Spanish are big on outfit coordination, clashing colors and mis-matched styles are a no!

Do get your denims out, they are very popular here in every style and worn throughout the year.

Do not
forget about your shoes, the Spanish love shoes, and for them a pair of shabby shoes can let down a whole outfit.

Shoes Spaniards Would Wear

We are leaving for Spain one month from today!!

And just in case that’s not enough news to get you excited, you can check out a detailed itinary of our events while we’re in Santiago de Compostela by clicking here:  Detailed Itinerary

Also, if there is something you would like to see included in the pre-trip blog, please email ideas to Srta. DeBlois at cdeblois@mail.ab.mec.edu

¡Hasta pronto!

Saving up those pennies so that you can get some souvenirs when we’re in Spain? Here is some information to get you thinking about what you’d like to bring back.

Azabache necklace

Spanish ceramics

 Santiago de Compostela has two particular materials that are used in local artisan crafts: azabache and silver. The black jet stones of the azabache are used for jewelry and amulets, while all kinds of silver goods are available to buy. The shops around the cathedral stock a good selection of these – many have some association with St James or local traditions. 

If jewerly is not your thing, you can find ceramic tiles, lace, clogs and other artisans’ goods in the craft shops of the Old Quarter. The markets, on the Virxe da Cerca, are excellent venues for exploring the delights of traditional Galician produce and crafts. Pulpeiras (octopus sellers) are a common sight on market days.

If the traditional markets of Santiago de Compostela cannot satisfy shopping urges, head to the more modern facilities available in the shopping centres near the station, the Polígono de Fontiñas and around Castiñeiriño. The department store El Corte Inglés is located at Rúa do Restallal 50, in the Zona Paxonal. In the arcades of Tras de Pilar, there are shops selling the work of the rising generation of young Galician fashion designers.

General shopping hours are 10:00 am-2:00pm and 4:30pm–8:00pm (the extended lunch break is standard).

Santiago de Compostela is located in Galicia, in the northwest of Spain.

Santiago de Compostela was named European Capital of Culture in 2000.

Statue of St. James

The most popular sight of the city is the supposed tomb of Apostle Saint James, which has been a highly popular pilgrimage site for almost a thousand years.

Galicia, and in particular, Santiago de Compostela, has some excellent gastronomy. Naturally, culinary offerings in the coastal regions usually focus on seafood, with the inland regions specialising in meat and vegetables.

Gaitas Gallegas

Music usually features traditional instruments such as Gaitas (bagpipes), accordions, bodhran drums (pandeiro), the hurdy gurdy (zanfona) as well as smaller wind instruments (flute and clarinet) that forms a more Celtic base.

We will be spending most of our time in Spain in the region of Galicia – the region in the northwest corner of the peninsula. Here are some interesting fun facts about the area:

  • Galicia is one of Spain’s 17 Autonomous Communities, located in the northwest corner of Spain, the region of Galicia is an area comprising of grass and granite that has a rugged coastline.
  • It comprises of four provinces, La Coruña, Pontevedra, Lugo and Ourense, named after their capital cities.
  • It is Europe’s western most region.
  • There are 1,200km of winding coastline, 750 beaches and 275km of fine, white sand.
  • Galicia has a population of over 3 million people, widely dispersed throughout the region.
  • In Galicia, more than 80% of the people speak Galician well, though nearly all of them will also speak Castellano (which is what they call Spanish) and may even chose to use it most of the time. Galician is known as Galego in the local language and Gallego in Castellano. Here are some examples of how Galician, Portuguese and Spanish are related:
English Galician (Official) Galician (Reintegrationist) Portuguese Spanish
Good morning Bo día / Bos días Bom Dia Bom Dia / Bons dias Buenos días
What is your name? Como te chamas? ¿Cómo te llamas?
I love you Quérote / Ámote Amo-te Te quiero / Te amo
Excuse me Desculpe Perdón / Disculpe
Thanks / Thank you Grazas / Graciñas Obrigado Gracias
Welcome Benvido Bem-vido Bem-vindo Bienvenido
Goodbye Adeus* Adiós
Yes Si Sim
No Non Nom Não No
Dog Can Cam Cão Perro (Rarely Can)
Grandfather Avó /aˈbo/ Avô** /ɐˈvo/ Abuelo
Newspaper Periódico / Xornal Jornal Periódico
Mirror Espello      

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